Traditional shaving is a controlled shaving method performed with a classic safety razor, double-edge blade, shaving brush, and well-lathered foam. When the right equipment and technique are used, it can provide a close, comfortable, and enjoyable shave. In this guide, we explain the materials required for traditional shaving, how to prepare the skin, and how to perform the shave step-by-step.
What is Traditional Shaving?
Traditional shaving typically refers to wet shaving done with classic safety razors that use double-edge blades. The aim of this method is not to remove the beard in a single pass, but to gradually shorten it with the correct angle, low pressure, and controlled passes.
While the blade angle in cartridge razors is largely determined by the razor itself, with classic safety razors, the user has control. Therefore, it is necessary to learn the correct angle and pressure during the first few shaves. Once the technique is mastered, the shaving routine becomes a more personal and controlled experience.
What Do You Need for Traditional Shaving?
You don't need a lot of products to start. A basic traditional shaving set consists of the following:
- Classic safety razor
- Double-edge blades
- Shaving soap or shaving cream
- Shaving brush
- Aftershave balm or lotion
A shaving bowl, alum block, and razor/brush stand are not essential, but they can make the routine more organized and convenient.
Classic Safety Razor
For beginners, a closed-comb safety razor with a balanced character is generally easier to control. Open-comb or more aggressive models can be effective for dense and coarse beards, but their tolerance for error may be lower.
When choosing a razor, not just the price or appearance, but also the head design, handle length, weight balance, and beard coarseness should be considered.
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Double-Edge Blade
Not every double-edge blade yields the same result on every skin type and with every razor. The sharpness of the blade, its coating, and the combination it forms with the razor change the shaving sensation. Therefore, it is more appropriate for beginners to try several different blades to find the option suitable for their skin and beard type.
A used blade should be changed when it starts to pull, snag, or lose its comfort. How many shaves a blade can be used for varies depending on the coarseness of the beard, shaving frequency, and the blade used.
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Shaving Brush
A shaving brush is not only used to apply lather to the face. It helps prepare a homogeneous lather from soap or cream, lifts the beard hairs, and distributes the lather evenly across different areas of the face.
Synthetic brushes dry quickly and are easy to maintain. The properties of natural bristle brushes, such as water retention, backbone, and tip softness, can vary depending on the type of hair used.
Shaving Soap or Cream
The primary role of well-prepared shaving lather is not just to soften the beard. It should also create a slippery surface that helps the razor glide more comfortably over the skin.
If the lather appears dry, stiff, and bubbly, not enough water may have been added. A very watery and runny lather, on the other hand, may lose its protective structure. Ideal lather should be shiny, dense, and easy to spread.
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How to Perform a Traditional Shave?
1. Determine the Direction of Hair Growth
Before shaving, examine the direction in which your beard grows in different areas. Hairs on the cheeks, chin, neck, and mustache area may not grow in the same direction. Especially in the neck area, the direction of growth can vary from person to person.
Making the first pass with the grain can help reduce unnecessary irritation and ingrown hair risk.
2. Prepare Your Skin and Beard
Wash your face with warm water. Warm water and a few minutes of moisture help soften the beard hairs. Shaving after a shower can also facilitate the preparation process.
If your skin is easily irritated, a pre-shave product can be used. However, the foundation of good preparation is clean skin, sufficient moisture, and properly prepared lather.
3. Prepare the Shaving Lather
Wet the brush with water and gently squeeze out the excess. If using soap, load a sufficient amount by swirling the brush over the product in circular motions. If using cream, you can take a small amount into a bowl or directly onto the brush.
When preparing the lather, add water little by little, not all at once. As you continue the brush movements, the lather should gain volume and develop a shiny appearance.
Apply the lather to your face in circular motions. In the final stage, spread the lather in an even layer by stroking the brush as if painting.
4. Securely Install the Blade in the Razor
Open the razor head and place the double-edge blade without touching its sharp edges. When closing the head, ensure the blade is evenly aligned on both sides.
Do not leave the razor with the blade installed carelessly. When not in use, store it in a safe place out of reach of children.
5. Find the Correct Shaving Angle
Place the top cap of the razor against your skin and slowly lower the handle to find the angle at which the blade begins to cut the beard. For many classic razors, the effective angle is around 30 degrees; however, the correct angle can vary depending on the razor's head design.
Do not press the razor against your skin. The cutting action should be performed by the blade and the weight of the razor. Excessive pressure increases the risk of irritation and cuts rather than a closer shave.
6. Use Short and Controlled Strokes
Make the first pass with the grain, using short strokes. Instead of dragging the razor in long, continuous motions, use controlled strokes a few centimeters long.
Rinse the razor regularly with water to clean off accumulated lather and beard hairs. Reapply lather before going over an area that no longer has lather.
7. Prepare for the Second Pass
It is normal to have some beard remaining on your face after the first pass. The goal in traditional shaving is not to completely remove the beard in the first pass.
Relather your face before the second pass. If your skin allows, you can make a pass across the grain. It is not necessary for beginners to go directly against the grain in their first shaves.
8. Rinse Your Face and Check
When shaving is complete, you can rinse your face first with warm, then with cool water. Pat your skin dry with gentle touches instead of rubbing with a towel.
If there is a minor bleed, an alum product can be applied locally. Using alum is not essential and may cause dryness or discomfort on sensitive skin.
9. Complete Your Aftershave Care
After shaving, apply a balm or lotion suitable for your skin's needs. For dry and sensitive skin, products with moisturizing properties, low alcohol content, or alcohol-free options may be more comfortable. Oily skin types, on the other hand, may prefer lighter-textured products.
Spread the product gently with clean hands instead of rubbing vigorously. If there is significant irritation, prolonged burning, or recurring skin problems, it is advisable to stop shaving and consult a dermatologist.
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How Many Passes Should Be Made in Traditional Shaving?
For a clean, daily look, one or two passes may be sufficient for most users. A three-pass shave can yield a smoother result; however, each additional pass increases contact between the skin and the blade.
- First pass: With the grain
- Second pass: Across the grain
- Third pass: Against the grain, if appropriate
If you have sensitive skin or are prone to ingrown hairs, aiming for a comfortable result rather than a very close shave may be more appropriate.
Common Mistakes in Traditional Shaving
- Pressing the razor too hard against the skin
- Starting to shave without determining the direction of hair growth
- Using dry lather that is not slippery enough
- Going over areas repeatedly without lather
- Continuing to use a dull or uncomfortable blade
- Trying to achieve perfectly smooth results on the first shave
- Leaving the brush and razor wet after shaving
Mastering the technique can take a few shaves. Changing the razor, blade, soap, and technique all at once makes it difficult to understand which element yields good or bad results. In the initial period, making changes one by one yields healthier results.
How to Clean a Razor and Brush?
After shaving, open the razor and clean off any lather and hair residue with water. After drying the parts, store the razor in an airy place. If the blade is left in the razor, ensure it does not remain damp.
Rinse the shaving brush until no lather remains, gently shake off excess water, and leave it to dry in an airy place. Do not store the brush wet in a closed cabinet or travel bag.
Traditional Shaving Summary for Beginners
- Determine the direction of hair growth.
- Prepare your face with warm water.
- Create a slippery and moist shaving lather.
- Place the blade correctly in the razor.
- Hold the razor at the appropriate angle without pressing.
- Make the first pass with the grain.
- Relather if necessary and proceed to the second pass.
- Rinse your face and apply aftershave care.
- Clean the razor and brush and leave them to dry.
The right equipment alone does not guarantee a good shave. Preparation, lather consistency, low pressure, and moving with the grain are as important as the razor and blade used.
You can find the classic safety razors, shaving brushes, and shaving soaps and creams you need to get started all together in the Bonherre selection.
Frequently Asked Questions About Traditional Shaving
Is traditional shaving suitable for beginners?
Yes. For beginners, starting with a balanced and closed-comb razor, using low pressure, and making passes with the grain in the first shaves can facilitate the learning process.
Does a classic safety razor irritate the skin?
Wrong angle, too much pressure, dry lather, or a dull blade can cause irritation. With proper preparation and technique, unnecessary passes over the skin can be reduced. The result varies depending on individual skin and beard type.
How many times can a double-edge blade be used?
There is no definitive number of uses. The blade model, beard coarseness, and shaved area change the lifespan. A blade should be changed when it starts to pull, snag, or cause discomfort.
Is shaving soap or shaving cream better?
Both can be effective when properly prepared. Shaving creams generally lather faster; hard shaving soaps can be used for a long time. The choice depends on skin type and usage habits.
Can you shave traditionally every day?
People whose skin tolerates daily shaving can shave every day with the traditional method. For daily use, it is important to make fewer passes, keep pressure low, and provide moisture support after shaving.
Do you need to shave against the grain?
No. For a clean, daily look, two passes with the grain or across the grain may be sufficient. Shaving against the grain can give a closer result; however, it can increase the risk of discomfort for sensitive skin and those prone to ingrown hairs.