When choosing a traditional razor, it's not enough to just look at its appearance or brand. The razor's comb structure, head geometry, weight, handle length, and how the blade feels on the skin directly affect the shaving experience.
For beginners, a closed-comb razor with a balanced character is generally easier to control. For thick and long beards, open-comb models that can more easily remove lather and cut hairs from the head may offer an advantage. However, an open comb is not always aggressive, and a closed comb is not always mild; the entire geometry of the razor should be evaluated together.
What is a Traditional Razor?
A traditional razor is a shaving tool, mostly used with double-edged standard razor blades, that exposes only a small portion of the blade. These razors are also known as "classic razors," "blade razors," or by their English name, "safety razors."
While with cartridge razors the entire head is regularly replaced, with traditional razors only the blade is renewed. The body of the razor can be used for many years with proper care.
Parts of a Traditional Razor
A traditional razor fundamentally consists of the following parts:
- Top cap: Holds the blade from above and forms the curve of the head.
- Base plate: Determines the blade's position within the razor and its relationship with the skin.
- Comb or safety bar: Helps regulate the contact between the skin and the blade.
- Handle: Allows for gripping and guiding the razor during shaving.
- Blade: The part that cuts the hair and is regularly replaced.
The character of the razor does not come from the individual features of these parts but from the geometry they create together.
What is a Closed-Comb Razor?
Closed-comb razors have a continuous safety bar, either straight or with small channels, in front of the blade. This bar makes the contact between the skin and the blade more controlled.
Most closed-comb models are suitable for daily or frequent shaving. However, being closed-comb does not necessarily mean a razor is very mild. Blade gap, blade exposure, and head angle can change the razor's feel.
Advantages of a Closed-Comb Razor
- Generally easier for beginners to control.
- Many options are suitable for daily and frequent shaving.
- Can offer a balanced and predictable feel on the skin.
- Milder-character models are available for sensitive skin.
- Can provide a comfortable and clean shave for short beards.
Disadvantages of a Closed-Comb Razor
- May require more frequent rinsing of the head for very long or dense beards.
- May require extra passes for a close shave with an overly mild model.
- Repeated passes over the same area with incorrect technique can cause irritation.
What is an Open-Comb Razor?
In open-comb razors, the section in front of the blade consists of separated comb teeth. Lather and beard hairs can pass through these openings.
This structure can help reduce clogging of the head with hair, especially when shaving several days' growth or longer beards. While open-comb razors often provide a more direct blade feel, not all open-comb models are equally aggressive.
Advantages of an Open-Comb Razor
- Can be effective on longer and denser beards.
- Can facilitate the removal of lather and cut hairs from the head.
- Models that provide an effective cut with fewer passes are available.
- May be suitable for those who shave every few days instead of daily.
- Can offer a more direct cutting feel for thick and coarse beards.
Disadvantages of an Open-Comb Razor
- Blade feel can be more pronounced compared to closed-comb models.
- Some models are less forgiving of angle and pressure errors.
- Beginners may take time to adapt to the technique.
- Unnecessary pressure or too many passes can cause irritation on sensitive skin.
Differences Between Open Comb and Closed Comb
| Feature | Closed Comb | Open Comb |
|---|---|---|
| General use | Daily and frequent shaving | Longer and denser beards |
| Blade feel | Generally more controlled | Generally more pronounced |
| Beginners | Mostly more suitable | May require technique and caution |
| Long beard passes | May require more frequent rinsing | Comb openings can provide an advantage |
| Skin sensitivity | Many mild-character options | Correct angle and pressure are more important |
This comparison is a general guide. Two razors cannot be precisely compared by looking solely at their comb type. Mild-character open-comb or highly efficient closed-comb razors can also be found.
What Does "Aggressiveness" Mean in a Razor?
Aggressiveness is a general term used to describe how noticeably the razor's blade is felt on the skin and how directly it cuts the beard. There is no standard measure of aggressiveness across the industry.
The main factors affecting the razor's character are:
- Blade gap,
- Blade exposure,
- Head curvature,
- How securely the blade is held within the head,
- Structure of the comb or safety bar,
- Weight and balance of the razor,
- Blade used,
- Shaving angle and applied pressure.
Therefore, merely looking at the blade gap in millimeters on a product page is not sufficient. Two razors with the same blade gap can feel different on the skin due to different head geometries.
Differences Between Mild, Medium, and Aggressive Razors
Mild-Character Razors
These are models with lower blade feel that tolerate angle errors relatively easily. They may be suitable for daily shaving, sensitive skin, and beginners. For very dense beards, extra passes may be needed to achieve a close result.
Medium-Character Razors
Aim to strike a balance between comfort and cutting efficiency. They have options that appeal to both those who shave regularly and those with several days of beard growth. For many users buying their first razor, this can be a balanced choice.
Aggressive-Character Razors
These models have a more pronounced blade feel and cutting power. They can be effective on coarse, dense, or longer beards. However, they require more careful use regarding angle, pressure, and number of passes.
What is an Adjustable Razor?
Adjustable razors allow the blade gap or the blade's effect on the skin to be set to different levels. Users can achieve a mild shave character at lower settings and a more effective one at higher settings.
An adjustable razor can be advantageous in these situations:
- If shaving beards of different lengths on different days,
- If there are different sensitivities in the cheek and neck areas,
- If a strong setting is desired for the first pass and a milder one for subsequent passes,
- If different shave characters are desired to be tried with a single razor.
Instead of constantly using an adjustable razor at different levels, beginners should choose a low or medium setting and first get used to the correct angle and pressure.
What is a Slant Razor?
In slant razors, the blade is held slightly angled or twisted within the head. This structure allows for a different cutting action for the hair and can be particularly effective on coarse beards.
When using a slant razor, there is no need to move the head sideways. The razor should be used normally, with short and controlled strokes. Deliberately sliding it sideways to change the cutting direction can increase the risk of nicks.
Difference Between Two-Piece and Three-Piece Razors
Three-Piece Razors
Consist of a top cap, base plate, and handle. They are easy to clean, and some models allow for personalization with different base plates or handles.
Two-Piece Razors
The base plate and handle are connected, and the top cap separates. Fewer parts are involved during blade changes.
The number of pieces alone does not determine shaving quality. Well-designed and balanced razors can be found in both systems.
How to Choose Handle Length?
Short-handled razors can make it easier to control the head's movement more closely with the fingers. Long-handled models may be preferred by people with large hands or those who prefer a lower grip.
- Short handle: Provides agile movement and close control of the head.
- Medium handle: Offers balanced use for most users.
- Long handle: Can be comfortable for large hands and those who prefer a long grip.
It is sufficient to hold the handle just enough to prevent the razor from slipping, rather than gripping it tightly.
Is Razor Weight Important?
A heavy razor can glide with its own weight during shaving and remind the user not to apply pressure. Light razors, on the other hand, can be agile and easy to maneuver, but the user might unconsciously apply more pressure.
More important than the razor's total weight is how the weight is distributed between the handle and the head. A razor balanced closer to the head will feel different from a handle-heavy razor.
Which Razor for Which Beard Type?
Those Who Shave Daily
A mild or medium-character closed-comb razor can be balanced for daily shaving of short beards.
Those Who Shave Every Two or Three Days
A medium-effective closed-comb or a controlled open-comb model can be considered. The choice depends on beard density and user experience.
Those Who Shave Once a Week
An open-comb razor that can pass longer beards more easily or a razor with a more effective character can be advantageous.
Those with Thick and Coarse Beards
Razors with medium to high cutting power can be considered. However, using a powerful razor does not replace proper beard preparation. The beard should be sufficiently softened with warm water and quality lather.
Those with Sensitive Skin
A mild or balanced closed-comb model can be suitable for beginners. Not pressing the blade, making the first pass with the grain, and limiting the number of passes are more important than the choice of razor.
For detailed information on this topic, you can review our shaving guide for sensitive skin.
Which Razor Should Beginners Choose?
For the first razor, these features generally provide a balanced start:
- Closed-comb head,
- Mild or medium shave character,
- Textured handle to reduce slipping,
- Medium length suitable for the hand,
- Easy to disassemble and clean design,
- Design that properly aligns the blade in the head.
Beginners do not necessarily need to choose the most effective or aggressive razor immediately. First, learn the angle, pressure, and grain direction; then, if needed, move on to more effective models.
Does Blade Choice Change the Razor's Character?
Yes. The same razor can feel milder or more pronounced with different razor blades. The sharpness, coating, and feel on the skin of blades can vary between brands.
When evaluating a new razor, instead of constantly changing blades, shaving a few times with a known blade makes it easier to understand the razor's character. Afterward, different blades can be tested in a controlled manner.
How to Use a Traditional Razor?
- Prepare your beard with warm water and an appropriate shaving product.
- Check that the blade is properly seated in the razor.
- Place the head on the skin and slowly find the cutting angle.
- Move the razor with short strokes without pressing.
- Make the first pass in the direction of hair growth.
- Do not re-pass over an area without lather.
- Rinse the head with water at regular intervals.
- If necessary, apply lather again and start the second pass.
To learn all stages of shaving, you can read our traditional shaving guide for beginners.
Mistakes Made in Choosing a Razor
- Thinking every open-comb razor is aggressive,
- Assuming every closed-comb razor is suitable for sensitive skin,
- Looking only at the blade gap measurement,
- Choosing a handle without considering hand size,
- Thinking a heavy razor requires more pressure,
- Choosing a highly effective model that complicates technique as the first razor,
- Constantly changing both razor and blade simultaneously,
- Trying to solve deficiencies in beard preparation with a more aggressive razor.
How to Clean a Traditional Razor?
After each shave, rinse the razor with warm water and clean any remaining lather and hair residue from the head. Periodically disassemble the razor and rinse the connection points of the parts.
- Do not clean the razor carelessly with the blade still installed.
- Do not use abrasive sponges or strong chemical cleaners.
- Follow the manufacturer's care instructions for coated surfaces.
- Reassemble the parts after drying them.
- If not using for a long time, do not leave the blade in the razor.
Conclusion: Which is the Right Razor?
The right razor is not the most aggressive or most expensive model; it is the one suitable for your beard type, shaving frequency, and experience.
- For beginners and frequent shavers, a closed-comb, balanced razor,
- For long and dense beards, an open-comb or effective-character razor,
- For different beard lengths, an adjustable razor,
- For coarse beards and experienced users, a slant or a model with higher cutting power can be considered.
By reviewing the Bonherre traditional razors collection, you can compare open-comb, closed-comb, and models with different head structures.
Frequently Asked Questions About Traditional Razors
Is an open comb or closed comb better?
For daily use and beginners, a closed comb is generally easier. An open comb can offer an advantage for longer and denser beards. The choice depends on beard type, shaving frequency, and experience.
Is an open-comb razor more aggressive?
Open comb razors mostly offer a more pronounced blade feel, but this is not a strict rule. Blade gap, blade exposure, and head geometry also determine the character of the razor.
Can beginners use an open comb?
Yes, they can; however, a closed comb and a balanced model can make the learning process easier. When using an open comb, more attention should be paid to the angle, pressure, and number of passes.
Does a traditional razor irritate the skin?
Wrong angle, excessive pressure, dull blade, and unnecessary passes can cause irritation. An appropriate razor used with proper preparation and technique can provide a comfortable shave.
Does an aggressive razor shave closer?
A more effective razor can give close results with fewer passes; however, a close shave does not solely depend on aggressiveness. The blade, beard preparation, angle, and the user's technique also determine the outcome.
Should a long handle or a short handle be preferred?
A short handle offers agility and close control to the head, while a long handle can be comfortable for larger hands. The most accurate choice depends on hand size and how the razor is held.
Can every blade be used in a traditional razor?
Most razors that use standard double-edge razor blades are compatible with blades of the same size. Nevertheless, blade compatibility on the product page should be checked.
How many shaves can a razor blade be used for?
The lifespan of a blade varies depending on beard stiffness, shaving area, blade brand, and usage. The blade should be changed when it starts to pull, skip, or feel uncomfortable.