Atatürk's Dress: A Timeless Style
If you think the hidden details in Atatürk's style, who had a clothing taste far beyond his time, are merely about "keeping up with fashion," you're mistaken. There's much more to it. Here it is...
For Atatürk's meticulousness in dressing, who is still recognized as one of the greatest leaders of all time, "keeping up with the pulse of fashion" would be more apt than "keeping up with fashion." First and foremost, his refined choices, even today, showcased his "leadership" quality in stylish combinations that many men cannot achieve. For Atatürk, clothing was both a revolutionary tool to improve the Turkish nation's global image and a form of communication.
Let's Briefly Recall: The Hat Law
Before the Dress Reform was implemented, the "Hat Law" was accepted in parliament on August 25, 1925, and announced in the Official Gazette three days later. Even before this law was passed, changes had already been made in some professional units, such as the gendarmerie and naval forces.
On August 25, 1925, Atatürk went to Kastamonu and introduced the hat, saying, "They call this headwear a hat," and continued his words as follows:
"Like the frock coat, the morning coat, the tuxedo, here is your hat! There are those who say this is not permissible. To them, I say you are very heedless and very ignorant, and I want to ask them: 'If wearing the fez, which is a Greek headwear, is permissible, why is wearing a hat not? And again, I want to remind the whole nation: When, for what, and how did they wear the cassock, which is the special garb of Byzantine priests and Jewish rabbis?' "
So, why a hat? Because a hat was a symbol of social status. It played a significant role, especially when performing the initial and fundamental step of communication, such as "greeting." For this reason, it began with the hat. Moreover, that day Atatürk himself was wearing a white fedora hat.
There were two reasons for this: Firstly, brimmed hats were worn by peasants working under the sun in different parts of the world. Therefore, it was easier for the peasants to accept. Secondly, the people of Kastamonu would see Atatürk in person for the first time. For this reason, he carried his image beyond a mere fashion statement, turning it into a form of communication, and he certainly achieved the desired result. This strategy was not limited to the "Hat Law."
Hidden Details and Style in Atatürk's Style
It is a fact that even today, Atatürk's taste in clothing and his ability to wear what suits him are still recognized. With an image far ahead of his time, Atatürk became the owner of a style admired even by today's great fashion designers. In this, his tailors did not play the sole role.
Leader and Stylist
Atatürk had a refined taste and selectivity, from the pieces making up his outfits to the smallest accessories. So much so that he would sometimes draw his own clothes and share them with his tailors to be sewn as he had drawn them. This knowledge of fashion, as in all matters, stemmed from his visionary approach, open to learning, and keeping a close eye on the West.
Vision in Every Field
Atatürk, who regarded knowledge and science as indispensable, demonstrated the same vision in the fields of art and craftsmanship. Among the artisans sent abroad for education was Levon Kordonciyan, who would become one of his tailors. During his education in Paris, he not only learned how to sew frock coats, tuxedos, morning coats, and tailcoats, and what the sewing techniques were, but also returned knowing when to wear them.
Levon Kordonciyan was also among the founders of Sümerbank. After Sümerbank was established with artisans like himself, the variety of fabrics in the country also increased. This, of course, formed an important step reflected in clothing.
Tailor, Not Tailors
Atatürk did not have just one tailor. Besides Levon Kordonciyan, Mösyö Pertekiç, of Greek origin, made his shirts and ties. According to Sabiha Gökçen, one of his adopted daughters, he had another tailor in Paris. Besides these, he also had a German tailor. Furthermore, his shoes were custom-made by the "Golden Boot" of the time, and fabrics and ties were usually given as gifts.
Always Appropriate for the Occasion
After the proclamation of the Republic, Atatürk predominantly began to dress in civilian clothes. However, if a very critical state matter needed to be resolved, he would attend in his uniform. Throughout his civilian attire, he always chose an outfit appropriate for the place he would go and the people he would meet, essentially a method of communication.
When going to see naval units, Atatürk wore a navy blue blazer jacket, and when hosting a state dignitary, he invariably wore a tailcoat. This was because wearing a tailcoat meant being the host of the event. He not only wore it himself but also had all his guards and waiters wear tailcoats. The reason for this was to convey the message, "I am not the sole owner of this state; we all are."
Always Stylish, Always
We are talking about "always" in the truest sense of the word. Because it was not only his ideas but also his taste in clothing that was ahead of his time. Many famous fashion designers emphasize that there are very few world leaders as stylish and well-dressed as Atatürk, and even those who are cannot quite approach his refined taste. So, how did he dress?
Slim-fit Jacket and Wide Trousers
Atatürk was not a tall leader, but his clothing compensated for this. He always preferred slim-fit jackets with wide trousers underneath. Among the reasons for this was to make him appear taller.
Silk and Linen on Stage at Different Times
His shirts were made of both silk and linen fabric, but he didn't wear them randomly. He mostly used silk shirts with formal suits. Linen shirts, on the other hand, were part of his more casual, sportier outfits.
Light Colors and Black
Almost all of Atatürk's chosen shirts were light-colored. Shirts in colors like cream, white, and off-white were sometimes even used with challenging outfits such as white suits. Besides, black played another role. Since black was also a "Leader" color, it was never absent from his clothes, but it mostly appeared in his tailcoats, tuxedos, or suits.
Wearing a Cape
The cape is a piece of clothing that has been used since ancient times. Of course, there were times when its function as a measure against the cold was taken over by outerwear. The fact that Atatürk could even wear a cape is actually an example of courage and charisma, because a cape is not an easy piece to wear. But we can say that he carried this very characteristic garment with great mastery.
Accessories Are Never Missing
Pocket square, cufflinks, lapel pin, cane... Atatürk always managed to detail all his official or casual outfits with an accessory. It is especially possible to say that the pocket square was never missing, being present in every one of his suits.
Sock Garters
Did you notice anything in Atatürk's photos when he crossed his legs? You never see his socks bunched up or sliding down. The reason is that he used sock garters. This way, his socks always looked crisp, as if they were a continuation of his trouser leg.
Benefit and Aesthetics Together
He made a waistcoat drawing for Levon Kordonciyan. This waistcoat, which he drew to keep his kidneys warm because he suffered from kidney problems, had a fabric front and a knitted back. In other words, he was a stylist who could find a way to both protect his health and be stylish.
It is impossible not to see how solid the foundations of a historical process, whose basis was laid with the Hat Law and continued until the Dress Reform, were. Even today, not many men would dare to wear what Atatürk wore. However, we know that there are many men who understand the role of clothing in being stylish and making a statement.
The question "Why do millionaires always wear the same things?" has been circulating a lot in recent years. The answer is simple: dressing is a waste of time for them. But is this really the case? When you think of Atatürk, this proposition loses its validity. After all, he was a leader who even found time to design his own clothes while rebuilding a country from scratch.
Perhaps dressing is an issue we don't dedicate enough time to. Here, we are not talking about buying too many clothes, but about being able to make choices that will truly help us project the image we desire.
Gentlemen, on the 98th anniversary of the founding of the Republic, we wanted to explain that the visionary leader of his time had the same vision in all matters. We hope it has been inspiring and thought-provoking.
Happy October 29th Republic Day.